Species:

Red Eared Sliders (Turtles)

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
Most freshwater turtles also included to this sheet

Sexing and Characteristics:
Freshwater turtles can be easily told apart by the size of there claws, males have longer claws then females. Females are a lot larger then the males

Mostly Active During:
Day

Substrate and Water Needs:
There enclosure should have water two times deeper then the size of its carapace aka shell. Then enclosure should also have a basking site that is dry. You can make this by taking some medium size rocks and Stack them to make a dry place.

Lighting and UVB:
There should be a basking UVB light in then basking site u made with a florescent light that run along the entire enclosure.

Temperatures and Humidity:
Good temperature range is 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, and you can monitor and maintain this with a water thermometer and a submersible pre-calibrated heater.

Heating and Equipment:
The enclosure should be fine if you have a basking light but a water heater can be used also to

keep the water warm.

Caging Provided:
A 20 gallon to 55 gallon tank are good but the bigger the better room the turtle have.

Diet:
Omnivorous

Description of Diet:
Commercial diets found in pet stores, such as turtle and trout food, can be given to Red Eared Sliders; however, this should supply no more than 25% of what they eat. Another 25% should be composed of cooked chicken, chopped lean raw beef, earthworms, crickets, feeder fish, and occasionally low-fat dog and cat chow (a premium brand). These items will supply your Turtle with the proper amount of protein. The other 50% of a Red Eared Slider’s diet should consist of vegetation such as dandelion, mustard, and collard greens, green beans, squash, and carrots. Some also enjoy an occasional banana. Feed adults every two to three days. Young Red Eared Sliders should receive a higher animal protein diet every day. Cuttlebones and calcium blocks will also make good additions to your turtle’s set-up. It should be noted that feeding turtles outside of their tank can greatly reduce ammonia buildup. Also, allowing feeder fish to live in the tank, or pond can also increase ammonia levels.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

I suggest using a turtle bone from Zoo Med for calcium and odd chewing problems and for food I use their Aquitic turtle food.

Maintenance:
This ensures that the Slider can easily right itself if it becomes turned around while swimming. Keep a canister, under-gravel, sponge, or power filter in your turtle’s aquarium. The water needs to be kept as clean as possible, and even with a filter you will need to change the water frequently. Water quality is the number one challenge when caring for any aquatic turtle. How often water is changed, is determined by the ration of gallons of water per turtle, and whether or not a filter is used. In addition different types of foods can cause the water to become dirty faster than others. In addition to visible waste, which should be removed with a net as soon as it is seen, there are other waste products that are produced which are not visible to the eye. One of the most important to recognize is ammonia. There will always be some ammonia present in the water, but filtration is necessary to prevent too much. Excessive ammonia can cause turtles to become quite sick. Bacteria may also grow in the water, and a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water is a good way to reduce bacteria levels. Also its good to have a bare floor to make it easy to clean

Some Words on this Species:
The Red Eared Slider makes an excellent pet, as long as the owner is responsible in their upkeep. They do very well with other turtles of their species and make excellent additions to outdoor ponds, if you live in a suitable climate. Like all turtles, they require a good deal of attention in maintaining their health and keeping them free of parasites. All of this can be done with the proper amount of attention to the turtle’s behavior. These turtles are, unfortunately, often discarded when owners do not realize the amount of space these turtles will one day take up. Be prepared to house a fairly good-sized aquarium if you are planning on keeping adults indoors. Large adult individuals may require up to 150-gallon tanks or better still, a pond if the outdoor environment is conducive. These turtles are very amusing to watch, and are usually quite active and entertaining. When adding new sliders to your tank or pond, it is a good idea to get a fecal exam before placing them with other individuals. This helps to prevent the spread of disease. Some diseases may be asymptomatic for long periods of times. While Red Eared Sliders are very popular and often purchased for children, this may not be the best choice, because they do grow to very large sizes, and as sizes increase, their care does become more difficult and expensive. This, along with their long lifespan should be taken into consideration before making a purchase. Turtles require much more frequent aquarium cleaning than some people realize. This should also be considered before purchase. Animal Rescue Organizations across the United States are currently caring for a large number of these turtles that were purchased hastily and later became inconvenient or impossible for their owners to house. The average lifespan of the Red Eared Slider is between 20 and 25 years, though some individuals may live as long as 40 years.

Golden Retrievers are one of the most popular family dogs in the United States. Their popularity is due to their excellent temperament and intelligence. We highly recommend this breed for all types of families, especially families with children of all ages. Since Goldens are sociable dogs, we do not recommend they be in an environment where they do not receive attention. Because of their large size of about 75-90 lbs. it is also not recommended that they be kept in small living conditions. Goldens make great couch potatoes, however, at younger ages they are active and require at least two walks per day. A mature Golden should have regular walks to keep them happy and healthy.

A Golden's personality and good looks are well known in the dog world...therefore, keeping your Golden well groomed and giving it lots of attention is important. Goldens are sporting dogs...they were specifically bred for hunting. Your Golden will love to retrieve objects that you throw or hide. Your Golden may even enjoy retrieving in water! Encourage this natural instinct by getting toys designed for retrieving. Providing games that utilize their natural instincts such as a simple game of stick throwing will keep your Golden happy. Goldens are also known to love tennis balls....be sure that you provide a extra large sized tennis ball (not a regular size) to prevent choking.

Goldens do require a regular grooming schedule. This is because of their long and multi-layer undercoat which sheds regularly. You may notice that your Golden has minor shedding daily, however, large shedding cycles can be as much as three to six times per year depending on weather in your area. To keep shedding under control, we recommend every two weeks a grooming schedule using a rubber curry comb (round or oval soft rubber hand comb) to first remove any loose undercoat and then a soft bristle wooden comb to make the coat shiny. Adding a teaspoon of olive oil or vegetable oil to hard kibble once per week will also help keep the coat shiny.

Goldens can have some health problems related to poor breeding. Be sure that you have investigated your breeder's history carefully for the following common health problems; hip dysplasia and immune system or allergy problems. Goldens are also susceptible to obesity and ear infections.
Posted by bird_boy

Species:
Frilled Dragon

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
Agama-Frilled Dragon

Sexing and Characteristics:
The males are typically larger than the females. They also have larger heads and teeth, larger femoral pores, and tend to have brighter frill colors than the females. Females can sometimes tend to be more skittish than the males. Frilled dragons can reach up to 30 inches in length. The tail is almost double the length of their body. When adults, the frill can be fairly large--up to 12-14" in length! *The lifespan of the Frilled Dragon can reach up to 15 years. Frilled dragons range in color from olive to grayish-brown to nearly all black. Their frill ranges in color from yellow to orange to jet-black, along with spots of orange, red, and white.

Mostly Active During:
Day

Substrate and Water Needs:
Make sure to leave a large water dish in the enclosure at all times. A cat litter pan works great as a water dish for adult Frilled Dragons. Young dragons should never be housed on sand. It will more than likely cause impaction and you will either end up with an enormous vet bill, or a dead lizard. Young dragons should be housed on black and white printed newspaper, paper towels, or alfalfa pellets. *note- alfalfa pellets do cause mold and it is more high maintenance to keep clean. When your dragon gets bigger, you can house it on cypress mulch, newspaper, wheat bran, alfalfa pellets or bed a beast. I prefer bed a beast because it holds humidity a little better.

Lighting and UVB:
All Frilled Dragons require a basking light and UVB light. The basking light wattage depends on how warm your house is. Make sure you find the correct wattage to get the right temperature. I would even suggest maintaining these temperatures before your Frilled Dragon comes home. Make sure that you use a light with UVB. Many light packages say they contain "UV light", make sure the package says UVB! I usually recommend Mercury Vapor Bulbs. They are a basking light and UVB bulb in one. They come with a 1 year warranty. With regular bulbs, you have to change them every six months. Not to mention, the mercury vapor bulbs seem much brighter and it seems to make the lizards more active--which is very healthy! *UVB light is very important for the Frilled Dragon to produce enough calcium, which prevents bone deficiency and MBD. Frilled dragons need 10-12 hours of light. (The brighter the light, the better. Frilled dragons thrive under full spectrum UV light.) I put my lights on timers to make it easier, and so the light schedule stays constant.

Temperatures and Humidity:

The basking area should be around 95-100 degrees Fahrenheit. (See what your dragon prefers. If he is always under his light, bring the temp a little higher. If he is hiding from the light, bring the temperature lower)... The cool side of the tank should be 75-80 degrees. The night temperature should be kept at the mid 70’s at best, but no lower than 65 degrees. Humidity should be at least 50%, no higher than 70%. I keep mine at around 60-65%. If humidity is too high, respiratory problems may occur.

Heating and Equipment:
Do not use heat rocks! They can cause severe burns on ANY lizard. I don’t even use heat mats. They have made little to no difference in temperatures in my experience, and there is still chance of the Frilled Dragon (or any lizard) getting burned by one. During the night, if the temperature goes below 65 degrees Fahrenheit use a heat lamp or a ceramic heat emitter. These produce up to little to no light so your Frilled Dragon can sleep soundly.

Caging Provided:
The bigger the cage, the better for Frilled Dragons. They love to climb and are very active lizards. The MINIMUM for the enclosure of one adult dragon is 4’ high x 3’ wide. You can house two adult Frilled Dragons in a 6’ height x 3’ wide x 4’ long enclosure MINIMUM. I recommend building a custom enclosure. It saves money, and you can do what you want with it! There are plenty of web pages on the net to give you some ideas on how to build the enclosure yourself. You can house a hatch ling in a 10 gallon tank. They will not be able to live in a 10 gallon for very long. Juvi Frilled dragons can be housed in a 40-55 gallon tank, but they will grow fast. Make sure that Frilled Dragons have plenty of things to climb on, along with a basking spot and a large water dish. *Note- Never house a large dragon with a small one. The small one may end up being dinner! Also NEVER house different species together.

Diet:
Omnivorous

Description of Diet:
Frilled Dragons are mainly carnivorous, but may also eat some fruit and veggies. These lizards eat A LOT. Hatchlings and Juveniles should be fed every day at least 2 times a day. Adults can be fed once a day. Wait to feed them until one hour after their basking light turns on, and two hours before their lights turn of so they have time to properly digest the food. Frilled dragons can be fed live crickets, super-worms, pinky mice, meal worms, roaches, cooked eggs, and canned reptile food. The juvenile Frilled dragons should be fed pray no larger than the width between their eyes. Veggies that can be fed are collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, and dandelion greens. Go to beautifuldragons.com to get a nutrition list for greens. Mealworms, pinky mice, wax worms, and fruit should only be fed as treats.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
Make sure to gut load all insects before feeding. I give my insects fresh fruit and veggies to eat off of. Dust insects/pinkies with calcium supplement powder every day for juveniles, and every other day for adults.

Maintenance:
Clean the cage every 2 weeks. What I do is scoop out fecal matter whenever I see it and replace all the bedding and disinfect the cage about every 3-4 weeks. Change the water every day, or every time you spot fecal matter in it. (Yes, Frilled Dragons love to poo in their water!) Mist them at least once daily. You can also give them a weekly bath in shallow luke warm water. *When you first get your dragon I recommend taking it to a reptile vet for a regular check up and fecal exam. Many new reptiles are known to have internal parasites that can be very dangerous to the Frilled Dragon if it goes untreated.
Some Words on this Species:
Frilled Dragons make wonderful pets for the responsible herp keeper. They have very strong personalities and are naturally curious. Juveniles may be slightly shy at first, but they warm up to their humans quickly. They are very docile. This species can be one of the most rewarding and personable of all reptile companions, next to the bearded dragon.

I hope my caresheets help you, and I hope you have fun with your frilly friend. :)

Posted by bird_boy

Species:
Yellow Tree Monitor

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
N/A

Sexing and Characteristics:
A Yellow slender bodied monitor that can grow up to 5 feet total. There are black spots on the body and the tail can be banded. The teeth are sharp like razors and can draw blood easily however the bites don’t hurt as much as you would think. They are skittish and handling them can help calm them. However if yours is wild caught like mine was have patience as to how long they take to calm, I have had her for 2 years and there are times that she still wants to run and hide. They have long sharp claws that will scratch up your arms so keep that in mind. Tail whipping and bowel evacuation are also defensive mechanisms. Males have hemipenal bulges and females don’t. I have a female so I can’t say for sure, but in most species of lizards the males have enlarged femoral pores and the females have smaller femoral pores.

Mostly Active During:
Both

Substrate and Water Needs:
A large water dish that is big enough for them to "swim" in, which needs to be changed daily as they will get it filthy with dirt and feces. I have awoken in the morning to find her sound asleep completely underwater. I found that they love to dig and create burrows which can extend a pretty good distance from the entrance. So I suggest at least 3 or 4" of soil or a soil mix in which they can dig and hide. Include a hide box and make sure to include a lot of branches especially for young ones as they are arboreal and love to climb, the higher the better. The bigger the tank/enclosure the better.

Lighting and UVB:
I have a combination strip light with florescent and incandescent light bulbs. Never go over the suggested wattage of the light fixture. Day cycle should be on around 10-12 hours and the night cycle should allow for cooling, but not too much. The light bulbs should be ones made for reptiles so they get the added UVA/UVB that is important for proper health.

Temperatures and Humidity:
A basking spot of up to 125 or more. The rest of the tank should be from around 95 to 80 and the humidity should be kept high.

Heating and Equipment:
Ceramic heat elements or under tank heaters can be added if the light bulbs don’t sufficiently heat up the tank. Be careful as to how much heat is in the substrate because they need a place to escape the heat. An easy way of maintaining the correct heat levels is by having two thermometers, one near the basking spot and one near the substrate level on the other end of the tank.

Caging Provided:
I have my 27" monitor in a 75 gallon tank so she has room to run and grow. I have huge rocks holding the tank top down because she escaped from the tank one day. So I suggest tank clamps or something similiar so you don’t have to worry about escape, but don’t make the rocks too light because you don’t want the monitor to get part way out and then have the top fall on them and injure or kill them.

Diet:
Carnivorous

Description of Diet:
Meat almost any kind, eggs (cooked so the risk of Salmonella is lowered), mice, rats, crickets (when small), fish, giant meal worms and I have found that canned cat food is similar enough to the canned monitor/tegu food to be fed. They are scavengers also so if you see that they don’t eat right away don’t be alarmed. I feed her twice a week but it can vary on size and what you are giving, if you give a big meal don’t feed them the next day if it’s a small meal maybe feed in another day or 2.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
All food should be dusted with vitamin and calcium powder. I also use a vitamin spray everyday.
Maintenance:
As long as you keep the water fresh, don’t leave food in past a couple of days and maintain heat and humidity you should have a happy healthy monitor.

Some Words on this Species:
This is a relatively new species only discovered in 1997 in Indonesia.

I hope my caresheets help you, and I hope you are careful with your newly discovered friend. :)

Posted by bird_boy

Species:
Ball Python

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
none

Sexing and Characteristics:
Males are generally shorter with less girth and females are bigger and usually fatter than males as with all snakes. Males and a hempenis.Your snake can be probed to find out what kind of sex it is.

Mostly Active During:
Night

Substrate and Water Needs:
I prefer Aspen but many other substrates an be used like:newspaper,cypress bed,cage carpet,desert snow,sani chips,and many many more.On the wood materials make sure to freeze them or bake them to prevent mites.DO NOT USE CEDAR OR PINE BECAUSE THEY ARE POISONOUS!

Lighting and UVB:
75 to 100 watt light bulb or ceramic heater.

Temperatures and Humidity:
85 to 90 on the hot side and 75 to 80 on the cool side and at night about 75 to 80.

Heating and Equipment:
75 watt to 100 watt depending on snakes cage size.I prefer the reptile bulbs or the ceramic heater and a heat mat can also be used.NO HEAT ROCKS THEY CAN BURN THE SNAKE AND ARE A WASTE OF MONEY!

Caging Provided:
Many people say a 20 gallon and it is fine but I prefer a 30 to 40 gallon I have a vision cage and it equals out to about 50 gallons if you have the money its worth your money to buy one because you can also stack them.

Diet:
Carnivorous

Description of Diet:
Baby-Fuzzy to small mouse Sub adult-Large mouse to small rat Adult-Medium to large rat

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
None

Maintenance:
Very easy to take care of just spot check every week change water daily and take out fecal that is left in the tank but other wise very easy to take care of.

Some Words on this Species:
They are great snakes for the experienced or the beginners and I love mine.Also many people love them because there calm demeanor and they size males 3.5 to 4.5 feet and females 4 to 5 feet.

I hope my caresheets help you, and I hope you have fun with your ball python. :)

Posted by bird_boy

Gerbils are easily tamed and will bite less then their cousins, the Hamster. Gerbils have a very gentle attitude and are not easily scared or startled like the Hamster. They are very active, social and playful animals! They are not nocturnal like their Hamster Cousins, so they are playing during the day and at night! They love to sleep together in groups as well! Gerbils are very social and are comfortable in pairs, unless you are wanting to breed, keep only the same sex in the cage together. Please remember, if plan on keeping two together, then they should be purchased at the same time so they could be raised together!

Housing:
Gerbils can adapt to any type of small animal cage. The most important thing to remember that the cage needs to allow plenty of room for the Gerbil to play and burrow. So a wire bottom cage is not appropriate for Gerbils! The SuperPet CritterTrials and Starter Homes are good prepackaged cage purchase choice. But if you can afford it, the best cage for a gerbil is a long aquarium, such as a 20 gallon long tank. The 20 Long will house up to 4-6 Gerbils. This will provide the gerbil with a chew proof cage that can be filled deep with a layer of comfy bedding that they can dig and burrow through. You can hide pieces of PVC pipe/ or SuperPet Tunnels in the bedding for them to run and play through, satisfying their natural instinct. You can also purchase a tank top to secure on top of the tank. Tank tops are wire tops that secure to the top of the aquarium. If you are just buying 1 - 2 Gerbils then a 10 gallon tank and top set up is sufficient.

Bedding:
Gerbils should kept in Aspen, CareFresh or shredded newspaper bedding. Cedar is not safe for small animals due to the oils in the wood. The Cedar is known to cause respiratory damage and even death in small animals. Pine Bedding, some experts say yes it is safe while others say no. Many Breeders will use Aspen while others are still using Pine Shavings.

Feeding:
It is HIGHLY recommended that you feed your Gerbil high quality of food. The reason why is because the higher quality of food has the necessary vitamins and minerals in them for your Gerbil. The lower end food lines that the Super Chain Stores and Grocery store sells contains only fat and fillers, nothing for nutritional value! For example, you do not want to feed you and your family nothing but candy every day for the rest of your life. You will end up having health problems and die at a younger age. This is what you are doing if you feed low end food to your pet!! You will find that by feeding your pet the better food will improve its life span and will show more signs of being healthy! And a lot of the times, the Pet Stores are cheaper on the better food products then Super Discount Chain Stores. Remember that this pet is part of your family now! Remember to feed daily the Gerbil/Rodent Block seed mix. You can offer your Gerbil vegetables only in small amounts. Vegetables contains moisture and too much moisture can cause digestive problems. Also remember to remove any uneaten vegetables at the end of the day. You can also provide bread, in small amounts, also, Hay such as Timothy as well to the gerbil as a treat. Chew toys and treats should be given to gerbils also. You can place paper towel rolls in the cages so the gerbils can chew and play with it.
Provide fresh water at all times!

Tid Bits:
With PROPER care Gerbils can live 3-4 years on the average. Now if you are doing minimal care and feeding low grade foods then your Gerbil's life span is cut in half to 6 months to 1 year.
Never lift a gerbil or pull it by its tail. The tail is very fragile. They should be picked up slowly by cupping the body in both hands. Gerbils can jump, so be careful when holding them. Gerbils go thru stages as it grows older, just like children to teenagers then into adult hood! Every gerbil is different in their personality! Be patient and respectful toward your gerbil and do not let a nip scare you away. Gerbils are very curious and playful creatures! Gerbils love to dig, burrow, and run in wheels/balls. They also love to chew and they will constantly will chew on anything they can. So provide lots of chew toys for them! The chew toys will help keep their teeth cut down!!

I hope my caresheets help you, and I hope you have fun with your fur friend. :)

Posted by bird_boy

Common Name:

Papillon

Other Common Names:

Continental Toy Spaniel, Butterfly Spaniel, Dwarf Spaniel

Scientific Name:

Canis familiaris (Full Taxonomy)

Group:

N/A

Origin or Range:

N/A

Europe Relative Size:

Much Smaller Than Average (as compared to other dogs)

Average Lifespan:

??? year(s)

Compatibility:

Relatively Non-Aggressive (as compared to other dogs)

Category:

Mammals » Dogs

Animal Description:
An ancient breed, the Papillon is known to have existed as early as the 14th century and there is a strong possibility that they were bred well before that.
The Papillon, also known as the "Continental Toy Spaniel", "Butterfly Spaniel" or "Dwarf Spaniel", is a steady, friendly toy breed. They do well in most any environment and make good watchdogs. Although quite active outdoors, the Papillon (pronounced "pappy-yon") is relatively calm indoors, making them quite adaptable to apartment living. Papillons are quite friendly, particularly towards those they consider family. They may bark at strangers and be possessive of their home and family, making them good watchdogs. The Papillon is not, however, a "yappy" dog, unlike other toy breeds. Papillons are quite intelligent, albeit stubborn, and can be taught simple tricks. Although most members of the breed are quite easy to train, others are more difficult. The Papillon can do well with other animals if socialized to them as a pup. However, some members of the breed may be aggressive towards other dogs. Papillons, although quite sturdy, are nonetheless small dogs, which makes them susceptible to injury from over boisterous children. For this reason, it is best if the Papillon's family consists of older, gentle children. The Papillon is an ideal pet for individuals who enjoy outdoor activity paired with quiet time at home. Some lines of Papillons are high-strung and timid, while others can be difficult to housebreak. The Papillon is a unique looking dog. Quite small, most Papillons do not exceed 11 inches in height or weigh more than ten pounds. Despite their diminutive size, however, the Papillon stands out. This is mostly due to its ears, which are quite large and resemble butterfly wings. In fact, it is the dog's ears that have caused it to be called "Butterfly Spaniel." The Papillon's ears are usually a darker color than the rest of the coat, which is always white. Most Papillons have spots of some darker color on the coat, as well as on the ears and around the eyes. Papillons have long, luxurious coats and a slightly pointed muzzle. The tail is long and carried over the back. Its exact origin of the Papillon is unknown. While it is likely the breed originated in Spain or Italy, people in both France and Belgium also claim the breed started in their country. Wherever its origin, the Papillon was featured in many paintings and frescoes of Renaissance Italy. The Papillon was originally known as the Dwarf Spaniel because of its Spaniel-type ears. It was later known as the Continental Toy Spaniel. The Papillon is recognized by all major Kennel Clubs.

Specific Care Information:

N/A

Relative Care Ease:

Average. The Papillon's long, silky coat requires daily combing to keep it from matting. Although Papillons are usually clean and odorless, the dogs should be bathed when necessary. Papillons are quite active animals and love going for walks or runs. However, the dog will remain happy even if a couple of days pass between walks. Some common health problems associated with the Papillon include kneecap problems (patella) and fontanel. Some Papillons have problems with anesthesia.

Breeding and Propagation:

N/A

Relative Breeding Ease:

Average. Like all dogs, over-breeding any individual Papillon may be harmful to his or her health.

I hope my caresheets help you, and I hope you have fun with your big-eared friend. :)

Posted by bird_boy